Recently named the best place to live in the UK by the Sunday Times, there is a lot going on in this quaint East Lothian seaside town.
If you’ve not visited recently you might associate it most with wealthy Americans living out their golfing bucket list. These days, North Berwick actually has quite the cultural scene.
There’s the annual Fringe by the Sea festival, bringing global artists and local comedians and everything in between to the area. The local high street has an array of independent shops, selling everything from homeware to vinyl. Head down near the Seabird Centre to find the beloved foodie hotspot the Lobster Shack, and enjoy fresh fish tacos while looking all the way across the Forth of Firth to the Fife coast.
It’s an idyllic summer location for a few days of staycation, if you’re looking to explore more of your home country (as many of us are in these post-Covid days).
One June night I stayed at Marine North Berwick, an imposing building overlooking one of the town’s many famous golf courses, as well as the sea. As the sky turned pink, and I tucked into whey glazed pork belly accompanied by a Rose of the Sea cocktail, I suddenly wished I did this more often.
Marine North Berwick was reopened under new owners in 2021, after AJ Capital purchased the property from Macdonald Hotels. It is now part of the Marine & Lawn family, which boasts luxurious properties in some of Scotland and Ireland’s most desirable golfing locations.
Stepping into the hotel on a sunny day feels like entering a grand old building in Cape Cod or New England, with dark wood and great open windows. It’s relaxed but classic, and the staff couldn’t be more helpful and friendly as we check in.
Our room, a Deluxe Sea View King, is pretty stunning. A good size with high ceilings and immaculate views towards the Bass Rock, the maximalist-chic wallpaper and details feel like a smart marrying of old and new. The bathroom is equally roomy, and even features a bath – I’ve no plans to head out on the links tonight, but those with tired muscles would be grateful for this after a long day of golf.
We head to dinner in The Lawn, the hotel’s tastefully decorated restaurant with bay windows towards the sea. More dark wood, deep green and gold embellishments fill the space with a luxury feel. We sample gin-cured Scottish salmon, locally sourced oysters, the aforementioned pork belly and a smoked duck breast, giving in to sides of purple sprouting broccoli with toasted hazelnuts, as well as heritage potatoes in smoked butter. The food is on the higher end of the price scale, with mains around £30, but well worth it for the attention to detail and high quality local produce. This is seriously impressive stuff. After trying and failing to fit in a dessert, we head for a much-needed walk along the beach to help with the inevitable bloating.
As it gets dark we realise we’ve been out walking in the pleasant summer air for over an hour. We head back to the hotel, pondering what kind of cocktails we should finish the night with. When we arrive we settle on a Bass Rock Old Fashioned each, and sit in a plush settee watching the last remaining light disappear in the northern sky.
After collapsing into bed, it’s suddenly apparent that there’s no air conditioning. Understandable for a Scottish hotel and certainly for such a historic building, but times are changing and for five-star prices, guests will expect aircon as standard. We open the window to let the sea air in, as well as a significant number of bugs which get comfy in the bed alongside us. Judging by the spots on our ankles in the morning, they had a little feast of their own.
Breakfast is pleasant, as last night’s restaurant is transformed in the bright morning light. A tempting selection of pastries are calling my name, as friendly waiters offer me a variety of egg options. I settle on a simple continental spread and chat away to a couple who are here from Pennsylvania. They’ve loved their stay so much that they know the waiting team by their first names. They don’t want to go home.
During the remainder of the morning, I sit and work in the reception area as soft music plays quietly. This is a pretty good place to be, as far as offices go.
Marine North Berwick is a dreamy, chilled hotel which I would highly recommend to anyone visiting the town. Excellent food, stunning setting, and faultless service. Be mindful of the lack of air conditioning, though I suspect that’s something the management team will address before too long.
Overall rating: 5/5, prices from £260 a night
