The Witchery review: A gothic Edinburgh hotel and restaurant | UK | Travel

When the wooden door opens to the Inner Sanctum suite at Edinburgh’s The Witchery, it’s hard to know where to look first. Each of the nine uniquely designed suites tucked away inside The Witchery is a Pandora’s box of surprises, with ornate details and whimsical nooks to explore at every turn.

The bones of The Witchery date back to 1595, with the dramatic stone building just steps from Edinburgh Castle. Perhaps most known as a restaurant, The Witchery offers nine rooms hidden out of view of the crowds of the Royal Mile, with a vast history behind it – and some whisperings of ghosts.

The building was built in the 16th century for merchant Thomas Lowthian, whose original carved initials and motto inscription can still be read on the doorway.

The Witchery by the Castle, as it is known today, takes its name from the hundreds of women and men burned at the stake as witches on Castlehill during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. It is reputed that more witches were put to death on Castlehill during the reign of James VI than anywhere else in Scotland – it’s thought some of them still frequent The Witchery’s luxurious surroundings today.

Having stayed there, we can safely say there’s nothing to be spooked by, but plenty that will have you gazing around in wonderment.

From the moment you step through the archway, into the cobbled lane that leads to The Witchery’s Secret Garden restaurant, everything here is dramatic and oozing romance. It’s no surprise then that the restaurant and its secluded suites have welcomed a few famous faces over the years, including Catherine Zeta-Jones, Andrew Lloyd Webber and Vivienne Westwood. 

The property has also received numerous accolades over the years, including being dubbed “Scotland’s most romantic hotel” by Scotland on Sunday.

Despite its high profile status, staff are genuinely friendly and warm without a hint of pretentiousness. They’ll take your bags to your room for you, which is handy as they are hidden away up a steep stone spiral staircase (if you have accessibility issues this is worth noting) and will talk you through everything you need to know.

After that, they will leave you to enjoy the space at your leisure – returning only for a turndown service or for any requests you may have.

Rating: 5/5

The Witchery is home to just nine suites, each one individually and thoughtfully designed. But leave any thoughts of minimalism at the door because this is a stay where bolder is better. It’s gothic and sumptuous and frankly, at times a little bit bonkers – but in the best way possible. The Library Suite has a bathtub hidden behind a bookcase while The Sempill boasts its own lavishly painted ceiling.

For our stay, we were handed the key (quite literally – there are no keycards here) to The Inner Sanctum Suite. The gothic, tartan-clad wonderland is the first suite created by James Thomson. The three rooms of the suite are filled with trinkets and art pieces, opulent furnishings and vintage delights, the theatrical attention to detail is impressive with not a single patch of the room forgotten about.

Guests are first greeted by the main drawing room, transporting you to an old-world Scottish manor, where floor-to-ceiling tartan curtains blend seamlessly into the matching wallpaper. A vast candelabra overhangs a round table, the centrepiece of which is ornate silver wine bucket complete with complementary Prestonfield champagne.

The rest of the space is an antique hunter’s dream, with antlers and ancient portraits hung upon the wall. An eclectic array of books fill the cabinet, one of which pays homage to former guest Vivienne Westwood’s designs.

Rating: 4/5

Dinner is served in The Secret Garden restaurant, often referred to as one of the best restaurants in the city, currently holding a five-star rating on Tripadvisor based on reviews. It might not be the best-kept secret, but tucked away through an archway off the Royal Mile, the restaurant feels a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of tourist crowds outside.

You’ll access the light and bright restaurant down a series of stairs, where servers are waiting to tend to your every need. Much like the rest of The Witchery, gothic romance is in the air, with towering golden candlesticks flickering on each table. On warm, dry days, there’s also a beautiful terrace set behind elegant French windows, perfect for an al fresco dinner or drinks.

The wine menu is impressive, not only given the vast selection – but with some jaw-dropping price tags for some of the rarest bottles to match. However, there are more affordable house wines too.

Classic dishes are on the menu, each one made from hand-selected, locally sourced ingredients. There’s a decadent platter of Scottish shellfish, which can be further elevated with Bareii caviar, plus roast rump of borders lamb and aged Scottish beef tartare. Eyeing up our neighbour’s dishes, I regret not opting for the perfectly fluffy and creamy mashed potatoes.

Vegetarian options are on the menu though are limited and a little disappointing, however, the staff were kind enough to accommodate by offering a gnocchi dish from the lunchtime menu. Given the vast selection of Scottish meat and fish on the menu, this is more of a foodie destination for carnivores.

In our experience, it’s the staff who really elevated the experience. Knowledgeable and kind, they are on hand to answer any questions and help you pick the right beverage to complement your chosen dishes without being overbearing. Given its fame, the restaurant does attract a tourist crowd, but children are not permitted after 8pm. 

In the morning, breakfast can be enjoyed in the original Witchery, unless you order a breakfast hamper to your room. Expect an antique ambience with dark oak panelling and classic red leather furnishing. Breakfast classics include smoked salmon, avocado and eggs on toast.

Rating: 4/5

Rating: 4/5

Suites start from £575 per room, per night and includes breakfast. Find rooms and book direct on The Witchery website.

Or, compare deals and prices for a stay at The Witchery with Booking.com or Hotels.com.